The first week of September marks the return of Rome's population and the re-opening of shops, restaurants, and bars all over the city. After a month of struggling to buy bread, empty streets, and zero traffic, it was a bit of a shock when I left my apartment Monday morning and found a re-inhabited Rome! It feels like life has come back to the city and everyone, myself included, is ready for some cooler weather. I, for one, am celebrating with an aperitivo spritz in Trastevere, one of the best areas in Rome for food and scenic walks.